Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Parsnip-Based Cheesecake? The 'Why on Earth' and a Preliminary Recipe

So, Ela, why on Earth would you use cooked parsnips as a base for raw cheesecake?
Yes, congratulations to kt for guessing correctly that the secret ingredient in my latest cheesecake was parsnips!
In this post, I'll answer the 'why on Earth?' question. I'll also give a preliminary recipe, since we're going on a trip in a couple days and I won't be able to do any more recipe testing for at least a couple weeks.

The simplest answer to 'why on Earth?' is because it's important to me to feel good about something I'm eating and serving to others. I've found that this applies to desserts and treats almost more strongly than to regular foods: I want it to taste delightful, decadent, creamy, indulgent, and I want to have confidence in my ingredients, and know that I'll feel good afterwards.

Now, to details.
I can see two major criticisms of using parnips in cheesecake, so I'll deal with those before I get to the 'pros.'
1) Won't the shelf life be greatly reduced by using a cooked starch?
It is possible that the shelf life will be reduced slightly, but I store cheesecakes in the freezer anyway, and everyone loves them (yes, this version too!) so they don't last long! There's still plenty of fat in there.

2) Um, cooked parsnips? I thought this was raw food cuisine!
OK: here's what I think: the base ingredient in 'regular' raw cheesecakes is cashews. And unless you are paying through the nose for 'truly raw' cashews, cashews aren't 'raw' either! Like mangos, cashews are in the poison ivy family and have a highly toxic secretion in the shell that is almost impossible to circumvent without application of heat.

I've done it, both in Thailand and HI. In HI, I got blisters all over me and maybe a half dozen nuts. (3 cups of cashews for a full-sized cake.) In Thailand, with slightly better equipment and protective clothing, two of us worked for a half hour for a scant half cup of nuts. How many raw restaurants, let alone regular raw foodists, (can afford to) pay out for 'truly raw' cashews?

And then, if you're making a low-sugar version, as I prefer to (for reasons I'll get to in a second), chances are that your xylitol isn't 'truly raw' either. I am highly skeptical about the raw status of agave, at that. Even if it's low-temperature processed, it's highly refined. For comparison: bees laboriously fan their gathered nectar from an 80% moisture start product to a 20% moisture finished product. I used to be a beekeeper, I love bees, but I definitely think that their honey is highly refined and 'processed,' even if it's raw and otherwise magical. For the more decadent raw desserts, I think most people would agree that there's a certain degree of 'fudging' on the raw status generally, certainly vis-a-vis level of processing.

Just because the bees processed the honey where we couldn't see, it doesn't mean it's unprocessed. I think a similar cognitive dissonance takes place for people when they think of nuts, which they can just buy at the store and use (raw material that might have been heated unbeknownst to them), versus parsnips, which they have to cook on the stove themselves.

Are you with me so far? For me, the 'it's ok, because it's raw' argument doesn't wash with the cheesecakes. I love them, but haven't always felt good with them, and wanted to have it both ways.
So, on to the 'pros' of parsnip use.

I used to think that the reason why people tend to feel heavy after enjoying a raw cheesecake was the combination of huge amounts of fat together with lots of sugar. That's what I speculated after the last time I tried a 'commercial' raw cheesecake (at Blossoming Lotus in Portland). And that's why I've always made my own cheesecakes much lower sugar, usually with a combination of xylitol syrup and stevia; occasionally coconut nectar. They're still very rich, but don't seem to be so coma-inducing.

But you know what? Raw cheesecakes are typically based on cashews, nut milk and coconut oil/cacao butter for firmness. Sugar's going to tend to make that a gut bomb, but all by itself, that's a whopping great load of fat! Of course, my recent interest in avoiding PUFAs has caused me to examine that aspect of cheesecakes.  Cashews are actually relatively low in PUFAs (and mac nuts, which also work in cheesecakes, contain almost none, but are almost as expensive as 'truly raw cashews'). This overall fat load seems excessive, even when compared with the standard cheesecake that's based on cream cheese and eggs.

For concreteness: cashews are around 750 calories per cup (three cups for a large cheesecake, remember); a cup of cooked chopped parsnips is around 150 calories.

You pair that with the nut milk and coconut oil, and even without using sugar, it's no wonder that it's so heavy.
The good news is that if you keep the nut milk and coconut oil and replace the cashews with parsnips, it's still plenty rich!

I've already made delicious 'pumpkin pie' type mousses with cooked yams, but a parsnip, or perhaps a white sweet potato, is great for the cheesecake application because they're still white, and have a sweet, neutral flavor. As I mentioned in the previous post, I could taste the parsnip, but only in the same, unobtrusive way that I can taste cashews in cashew-based cakes, and not a single person that I served it to detected it at all.
What do you think? Would you try this, or do you prefer to stay with the cashews? (Hey, there's room for both, isn't there?)
To help you decide, here's the recipe: please note that this is not the final version.
White Chocolate Blueberry Cheesecake
Recipe for a 7in cheesecake; I made it crustless--any favorite crust would work.
1 cup cooked chopped parsnips, well drained (peel before cooking)
3/8 cup coconut milk
1/4 cup xylitol syrup
2 tablespoons vanilla
1 tablespoon lemon juice
pinch vanilla powder
pinch salt
1/4 cup melted cacao butter
1 tablespoon lecithin

1/4 cup blueberries and an additional tablespoon of lemon juice for swirling.

Blend the first seven ingredients until smooth. Add the melted cacao butter and lecithin and blend again until thoroughly combined.

Pour out into bowl (or onto crust) but leave 1/2 cup in the blender. Tip: I tend to save some of the 'white' mixture in a cup so that I can 'mend' the swirl if need be.
Add blueberries and lemon juice to the blender and blend well.
Pour over the white filling, swirl with a chopstick.
Freeze to set.

I really hope folks will try this: please let me know. Another benefit of using parsnips is that I imagine that a 'regular' blender would be able to handle this more easily than a nut-based cake, so non-Vitamix-owners will still get good results.

I'm pretty excited about this whole idea and can't wait to hear what others think.

It really is spring here--amazing to think that this time last year there was still snow on the ground. I spent some time outside with a shovel this morning, uprooting some of the more persistent weeds. Pushki--cow parsnip.
Look at the size of those roots--and this is just at the two-leaf stage!
 Meanwhile, in the raised beds, our chives made it through the winter! Several small patches like this one.
I did pause to consider the irony of our delight at the survival of these plants that we carefully babied, and our zeal to uproot other plants that survived the winter with no help from us. Pushki is nasty, though... And you better believe that I'll be living on nettle smoothies a few weeks from now! I love wild foods...

Please tell me what you think about the cheesecake and if you try it!

23 comments:

  1. Yes, I will definitely give it a try. I love parsnips! I make "raw" cheesecakes for friends because they provide a richness that people don't believe is possible without dairy. I very rarely eat them myself because I find them very heavy. I'll pick up some parsnips and give this a try soon.

    Excellent idea!

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  2. I have to say, it's one of those that I have to try before I might make it. I am a little wary of parsnip in sweet stuff. I don't think you need to rationalize yourself at all, we all make those choices. To me, I actually do better on fats than with starches so even not "really" raw cashews might be preferable. I think it just depends. There seems to be a lot of talk lately within the raw community about fear of fat. Not just in 80-10-10 circles either. I'm a little surprised.

    Another idea to lighten up cheesecakes is to use irish moss.

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  3. Yay- parsnips! You are so creative. I love the idea and can't wait to try it. Can you find organic parsnips in Homer, or do you just go with non-organic? I'm right there with you in regards to the cashew issue, and I don't think cooked parsnips are a big deal at all.

    Have fun on your trip. Are you going somewhere fun?

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  4. Sounds amazing!! My cheesy parsnip dip is one of my all time favorite CR recipes, so this seems perfectly sensible to me in every way.

    I fear neither fat nor agave (mostly because I know how to eat both in moderation), but would have to agree that the use of cashews in a raw cheesecake can add up in crazy ways fast. It's fine for anyone who eats such desserts rarely, as I do, but it does feel like a little much.

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  5. I love your blog! I found your link on April's CR diary & wanted to come visit. I have a CR blog and a chronic illness blog. Sharing information has turned out to be a lot of fun. I can't wait to try some of your ideas!

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  6. Responding to my homegirl Bitt, above:

    I think the fat fear got intense when Neal Barnard and Colin Campbell, who have tremendous mainstream clout bc of their credentials, got on the lowfat/no fat bandwagon (even avocados). It troubles me because I think it's not necessary, not validated by enough scientific research, and because I think new vegans (often their audience) are already struggling with big dietary adjustment, and I don't know that telling them to cut out all the fat is going to leave them with an adequate sense of freedom (thus motivation to stick with it). Certainly I'm the first to say that I find the fat count in many raw recipes a little extreme, but a normal amount of fat from day to day seems, to me, sensible and in keeping with what we know scientifically.

    G

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  7. Parsnips! I never would have guessed. Good point about cashews never really being raw anyway. I'm not a fan of parsnips usually, but covered with white chocolate, I might like anything. :)

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  8. Well it sounds wonderful to me! I'll take it. I'd rather find a cashew sub anyway- too much fat for me... I get plenty of fat without adding more.
    :)

    Great job and it looks great too!

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  9. Thanks, LIsa--I'd love to hear what you think of it. Great point that the full-on cheesecakes are a wonderful way to show people that raw foods can be rich.
    love
    Ela

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  10. bitt--that's a great point too. I should clarify that this wasn't supposed to be a 'low fat' cheesecake: between the nut milk and cacao butter, it's still by far predominantly fatty. It is true, though, that my interest in PUFA-avoidance was a catalyst for this experiment. That and the 'overwhelming' feeling with the cheesecakes.

    I guess I'm out of the loop somewhat--I didn't know that there was vilification of fat going on. I definitely enjoy good fat sources and feel that I do better with them in my diet.
    love
    Ela

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  11. PS--yes, irish moss in cheesecakes is awesome! I don't think it completely replaces the nuts, though...

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  12. Thanks, Gena--yes, those are such sensible points. I still don't feel 'right' about agave, but your point about moderation is well taken. I often eat pureed parsnips with nooch together with salad and peas as a meal, and love it--a lot like your dip, I think.
    love
    Ela

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  13. Thanks, kt--we can't find organic parsnips here, but it's pretty hard to get most things organic here. We do our best, and I don't think parsnips are particularly bad wrt pesticide residues.

    We're going for a whirlwind ten days spread between Tucson and Oregon, routed through Seattle!
    love
    Ela

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  14. Sheila--welcome! I love to share ideas too and look forward to getting to know you more.
    love
    Ela

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  15. Gena--thanks so much for weighing in on the fat-negativity. I appreciate the clarification, as I'm not always up to date with everything that's going on. And I agree with you: it's definitely a formidable message to new vegans, especially new raw-foodists. Having played with very low fat diets for year, I know that I feel better with at least some fat, and have known many other people come to the same conclusion.
    love
    Ela

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  16. Amber--lol on white-chocolate covered parsnips! That's a great visual.
    love
    Ela

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  17. Thanks, Lori! Yes, there's still more fat than any other macronutrient in this and it's plenty rich. I think that making it beautiful really helps to win people over too (although as I mentioned, no one appeared to notice that it was different from the cashew-based ones I've been making).
    love
    Ela

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  18. Oh got to try this love your idea..

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  19. Native Kitten--welcome! I hope you try it, and that you like it!
    love
    Ela

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  20. parsnips are deelish and i can only imagine they would make a divine cheesecake! cant wait to try this

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  21. posted a comment here while I was traveling..not sure you got it..anyway...GREAT POST, as always!

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  22. rawesome goddess--I hope you try it and enjoy it!
    love
    Ela

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  23. Thanks, Barbara--I hope you had a great trip.
    love
    Ela

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